This information was originally created for the purpose of Ohio Dobermans families welcoming a Doberman into their home.  I decided to make the information public to help other Doberman owners in their journey.  While this is indeed useful for all Dobermans, and perhaps all dogs in general, this is for entertainment purposes only.

I am not a veterinarian; any advice or recommendations given are based on my Doberman-specific experience, but you should always defer to your vet’s guidance over mine.

Once the pup is in your possession, I process the registration paperwork on your behalf at my cost. I will use the information that you provided in your application for this purpose. You will receive your pup's registration from the AKC, as well as microchip registration confirmation, either by mail or electronically.  They may offer you additional products or services (subscriptions, etc). Your registration is already paid for, and you can simply decline the extra stuff if you don't want it.

I feed and recommend Victor Hi-Pro Plus. It is available at many retailers nationwide, and on Chewy.com if you can’t find it locally. Grain-free food is not recommended under any circumstances! A grain-inclusive diet (such as Victor Hi-Pro Plus) reduces the risk of DCM (dilated cardiomyopathy), which is a heart disease that can impact Dobermans.

There are many other great food types, but this is what we have used for many years.

You should always defer to your veterinarian’s instructions for continued care once your pup comes home. At minimum, you will need to schedule veterinary appointments for follow up vaccinations and deworming/heartworm preventative. The vaccine schedule that we use is 8wks (DAPP), 12wks (DAPP), and 16wks (DAPP+rabies).  Please schedule with your vet immediately to avoid disrupting their recommended vaccination & deworming schedule and keep your pup as healthy as possible.

The best advice that I can give is to NEVER take your eyes off your pup. They should be supervised (leashed, ideally) at all times when they are not in their crate. In the blink of an eye, your pup could ingest a foreign object or dangerous substance.  Keeping a clean home is paramount to puppy safety and health.  “Tethering” is the term for my recommended training method; your pup is either in their crate or on a leash attached to you - without exception - until they are at least 6 months old.

Inside the House: If you are unable or unwilling to tether, then the next best option is to figure out where they will be permitted and where they will be prohibited, and then prepare a room or set of rooms with physical boundaries such as a gate or door. Your puppy will be used to spending time with their littermates and mother, and so being alone will be a new and unwelcome concept at first. Be patient and compassionate during this transition from puppyhood. Pro tip: ONLY remove the pup from their crate or offer comfort in exchange for silence – never for barking or thrashing. Dogs interpret this release as a “reward” for their immediately precedent behavior. In essence, either you will train them to be quiet for freedom, or they will train you to open the crate when they demand it by barking and/or thrashing. Yes…this will absolutely test your patience. Be strong. With consistency, the drama will be short-lived.

Outside: Providing a clean and sanitary place for them to use the bathroom as well as go for walks and play is imperative to their overall well-being and happiness. Puppies are naturally curious and might dig. A yard or play area must be secure enough so that they, no matter how determined, cannot escape from the confines of the yard. Establish a daily walk or exercise routine in addition to dedicated training sessions.

Dog Parks: Dog parks are not recommended. Dogs are pack animals; it is not natural for them to be social with unfamiliar dogs. Even if your little angel “loves to play”, by visiting a dog park you are willingly exposing your pup to parasites, bacteria, viruses, untrained dogs with unknown social behaviors, untrained humans with unknown social behaviors, and countless other potential dangers. If that’s not enough to deter you, please understand that visiting a dog park under average circumstances psychologically reinforces the concept that dogs are more fun than you...your commands become useless around other dogs when other dogs are the source of top tier excitement.

Toys, food, bowls for food and water, kennel (42” should be plenty for an adult Doberman), and a leash and collar are essential. Pro Tip: there is no such thing as a "no pull harness". Dogs only behave on a leash when they are properly trained how to behave on a leash. Using a harness encourages the dog to pull harder.

Puppies chew a LOT - start them with toys that are chew-resistant and can be carried around (Nylabone, Benebone, and deer antlers are among my favorites). Rawhides are never a good idea. Plush squeaky toys or stuffed toys should be monitored carefully; your pup can destroy them quickly, and eating the material can cause a veterinary emergency.

Never leave a dog unattended with any toys.

Dobermans are easy to groom - nail clippers/grinder, toothbrush, and wire comb are sufficient grooming tools. Trim nails bi-weekly or as needed. Bathe monthly or as needed. I use watered down Dawn dish soap followed by a thorough rinse. Keep it simple!

Bringing a puppy home will change the family dynamic. Setting ground rules and responsibilities before the puppy arrives will save time and stress later. Decide in advance who will feed, walk, clean up, and train the new puppy. Make sure everyone in the home understands that the animal is not a toy but a living & breathing responsibility.

It is important to understand that certain exceptions will have to be made and that everyone will have to pitch in when necessary (i.e. if little Suzie forgets to feed the pup, someone still has to feed the pup).

Set a meal and potty schedule. Feeding them at specific times and always taking them outside afterward is a routine that will benefit both the puppy and the humans. First and foremost, teach your new puppy routines. Consistency is paramount to success.
• Where the food and water dishes are located.
• What times of day they will eat.
• Where their bed is.
• What time they go to bed.
• What time they get up.
• Where they go to the bathroom.
• Where the toys are kept.

Housebreaking your new puppy is going to take patience. You should begin to potty train as soon as you bring your new puppy home. Puppies need to relieve themselves several times a day (every few hours usually). A puppy should be taken out immediately after each meal since a full stomach puts pressure on the colon and bladder. Pro Tip: Do not use paper or potty pads inside your home. Peeing is for outside only, and when you teach with potty pads you are teaching your new pup it is okay to potty inside your home.

Removing Stitches from ear crop procedure.
Ear Posting Process